The simulated thatch particles are packed and brushed in jigs to imitate that real thatch look.

A reinforced polyurethane-binding strip is used to glue the simulated thatch particles in one tile.

Photo Description: Fiber Thatch® seen from the inside. Note the brown polyurethane strip with clips to fasten the tile onto an 8mm. rod. The tile can also be stapled, nailed or screwed through the polyurethane strip to timber battens or a sub roof.

The Fiber Thatch® tiles can also be used on top of any excisting roof covering to create that real natural look. Let your imagination do the work……..Fiber Thatch® will do the rest.

No special skills or tools are required.

Click here for erection procedures for a timber hut covered with Synthetic Thatch or Plastic Thatch.

The polyurethane strip ensures 100% flexibility. The Synthetic Thatch tile therefore can fit any contour or curve and can be fitted in valleys or around hips. Our special Synthetic Thatch eaves tile creates that special thick natural look at eaves or on parapets.

The Synthetic Thatch material: A choice between a Polyolifin based compound or a Poly-Vinyl-Chloride (P.V.C) based compound.

We claim the use of 7% recycled plastics in the manufacturing process. Our chemical engineers will aim to increase the use of recycled plastics.

Polyolifin particles

Mechanical properties: Tensile strength yield (50/50) 38Mpa.
Thermal properties: Heat distortion temperature HDT/A (1.8 Mpa) 55 degrees.
Heat distortion temperature HTD/B (0.45Mpa) 100 degrees Celsius.
No harmful vapors or gasses are emitted if ignited.
Above test method to DIN specifications. Tests conducted by Ciba Geigy.

Poly-Vinyl- Chloride particles (used when a 100% Fire Proof Thatch Roof is required)

P.V.C THATCH

Physical properties:

• Elongation 22% - ASTM D638 Test method.
  
• Tensile impact strength 152KJ/m - ASTM D1822 Test method.
  
• Vicat Softening point (5kg) 83C - ASTM D 1525 Test method.
  
• Flame resistance @ 0 decrees Celsius.

Color:

Yellow/gold to match a newly thatched roof of natural South African thatching grass.

Color pigments all register above 6 on the Gray scale.

Suitably stabilized for all outdoor conditions.

Accelerated exposure and weathering test available to date (equivalent 10 years natural exposure.) shows no deterioration whatsoever.

Fiber Thatch® tiles sizes are designed to maximise container space.

1. Fiber Thatch®tile stapled down to the polyurethyne binding strip.
   
   
2. Waterproofing membrane.
   
   
3. Subroof of your choice.
   
   
4. Cape reed ceiling board (see photo underside of roof).
   
   
5. Half Eucalyptus lath or bamboo (part of roof frame).

Our Fiber Thatch ® achieves the luxury, atmosphere, charm and nostalgia of a natural thatch roof without the disadvantages normally associated with natural thatched roofs.

ADVANTAGES OF Fiber Thatch®.

Africa Roofing is far ahead in the race to construct the perfect thatch roof. Opposition companies follow and copy and have even bought and directed "Fiber Thatch.com" to their site in an effort to divide traffic to their site, but we will still follow where Africa Roofing will lead.

To protect our "secrets"a password are required to access and print the manual. The password will only be supplied to agents or trained fitters.
Thank you,
Jan Grobler.

Please enter your user name and password and click on the Login button:

(Instructions to assemble a 4.6m diameter, 6-sided, timber hut and clad the roof with Fiber Thatch® tiles)

• The complete Timber hut is available in kit form
• The same cladding system is applicable on any shape, any size roof

COMPONENTS. (See photo no. 1)

• Timber hut posts and timber walls.

  • 6 x 2400mm x 90mm P/T CCA Turned Pine poles.
    
  • 3 x 1960mm x 2100mm Lap log profile timber wall units.
    
  • 1 x 1960mm x 2100mm Lap log profile timber wall with single door.
    
  • 2 x 1960mm x 2100mm Lap log profile timber wall with windows.
    
    
• Roof timber components.
  
  
  • 6 x 2m(110mm x 35mm) S.A.P. Main roof trusses.
    
  • 6 x 2m(110mm x 35mm) S.A.P. Sub roof trusses.
    
  • 6 x 2m(110mm x 35mm) S.A.P. Wall beams.
    
  • 12 x 1220mm x 2440mm x 19mm Triangular Roof-ply timber boards.
    
  • 6 x 125mm 2.2m Roof ply bargeboards.
    
  • 1 x 25m x 1.2m Roll Bond M water proofing sheeting.
    
    
• Synthetic Thatch components.
  
  
  • 20 x 400mm x 125mm Fiber Thatch® eave sections.
    
  • 96 x 800mm x 450mm Fiber Thatch® tiles.
    
  • 1 x Fiber Thatch® top cone.

Photo 1. All the components

1. Prepare a level surface of minimum 2.5m radius (concrete slab advisable) - (See photo no. 2)

   

   Photo 2.

2. Decide on the center point of the timber hut, using diagram A as a guide. Mark this point A.

3. Mark a circle with a radius of 2.0m on a level surface using point A as the center point.
   
   
4. Decide where you want the door. Mark this point B on the circle.
   
   
5. Measure and mark 1.0m from point B to meet up with a point on the circle and mark this C.
   
   
6. Repeat this on the other side and mark this point D.
   
   
7. Measure and mark 2.0m from point C on the circle and mark this point E. Continue with this until you have measured and marked points F, G and H.
   
   
8. Join the points that you have marked as shown in diagram B. You have now marked the positions of the 6 x timber walls and 6 x timber poles.

Installing the timber poles and walls.

1. Start with timber post 1 and place it on point D. With spirit level get the post vertical and support it.
   
   
2. Screw the timber door wall panel on line D / C onto the timber post. (See
   photo no. 3)

Photo 3.

3. Place timber post 2 on mark C. Move the post vertical against the door wall panel and screw timber post 2 to the door wall panel. Cut the top end of the post if it protrudes past the wall panel. (See photo no. 4)

Photo 4.

4. Carry on until all the poles and walls are in position. (See photo no. 5)

Photo 5.

5. Now check all dimensions and make sure that all posts are on the circle you have marked out.

Installing wall beams and roof trusses.

1. Place all the wall beams on the walls and make sure that they butt joint perfectly. (See photo no. 6)

Photo 6.

2. Screw all the wall beams together at their joining points, through the holes provided and using the screws provided. (See photo no. 7)

Photo 7.

3. Slide the steel brackets, provided, under the wall beams at the indicated positions and screw the brackets onto the walls. (See photo no. 8)

Photo 8.

4. While pressing down on the wall beam (sash clamps can be used), screw the bracket to the outside of the wall beam. (See photo no. 9)

Photo 9.

5. Complete the process with all the wall beams.
   
   
6. Starting with the main trusses (longer of the trusses), place two trusses in opposite corners against the wall beams. (See photo no. 10)

Photo 10.

7. Using the center-piece joining ring, bring the two trusses together on either side of the joining ring and screw them onto the joining ring through the holes provided. (See photo no. 11)

Photo 11.

8. Continue with all the main trusses until finished.
   
   
9. Fit the sub trusses the same as the main trusses, but placing their ends in the center of the wall beams on the marks provided. (See photo no. 12)

Photo 12.

10. Place the first triangular roof ply board on a triangle formed by the rafters and screw it down. The cape reed side must face down. (See photo no. 13)

Photo 13.

11. Complete the entire roof structure with the remaining triangular roof boards. (See photo no. 14)

    
    Photo 14.

12. Fit the short, outside rafter pieces by all the joints of the roof ply boards. (See photo no. 15)

    
    Photo 15.

13. Screw the roof ply bargeboards onto the bottom of the triangular roof ply boards and to the short outside rafters. (See photo no. 16)

    
    Photo 16.

14. Roll the waterproofing material onto the roof ply boards. The first layer must go over, down and around bargeboard. Nail the waterproofing membrane in position with clout nails. (See photo no. 17)

    
    Photo 17.

15. Fit the second layer above first layer. Make sure that second layer overlaps the top end of first layer.
    
    
16. Complete the process until your entire structure is "dried in". (See photo no. 18)

Photo 18.

Installing the Synthetic Thatch.

1. Nail 2 x 20mm clout nails, 350mm apart and 50mm above the bottom edge of the triangular roof ply section. Leave the nails sticking out ±5mm.
   
   
2. Hold first Synthetic Thatch eave section in position against eave bargeboard timber section. (See photo no. 19)

   
   Photo 19.

3. Fasten the Synthetic Thatch eave section with the two wires molded into the section onto the two nails.
   
   
4. Staple/nail the eave section at the bottom to the bargeboard. (See photo no. 20)

   
   Photo 20.

5. Fit a second eave section next to the first by repeating steps 1 to 4.
   
   
6. Carry on until you have worked your way around and cut the last eave section with a sharp knife to size and fit as above.
   
   
7. The Fiber Thatch® tiles are fitted from bottom to top, overlapping each other.
   
   
8. Mark a straight line around the sub roof of the hut, 290mm from the edge of the bargeboard.
   
   
9. Mark the rest of the sub roof with straight lines that are 250mm from the bottom line and 250mm apart thereafter.
   
   
10. Fit the polyurethane strip of a tile on the first line with the tile on top and over hanging the eave. Ignore the ends that protrude past the eave section for the time being. (See photo no. 21)
    

    Click on photo to enlarge
    
    
    
    Photo 21.

11. Nail/staple the tile down through the polyurethane strip.
    
    
12. Fit the second tile next to the first tile repeating steps 10 and 11.
    
    
13. Carry on and fit tiles right around. Because the tiles can bend, curve around hips and in valleys contours can easily be followed.
    
    
14. Cut the last tile with a sharp knife to size and fit as above.
    
    
15. Fit the second row of Fiber Thatch tiles above the first row on the line as marked above. Follow steps 10 to 14. (See photo no. 22)
    
    
    

    Click on photo to enlarge
    
    
    Photo 22.

16. After the second row is finished, work your way upwards until the entire sub roof is covered. (See photo no. 23)

    
    Photo 23.

17. The Fiber Thatch ® top cone provides the final waterproofing and finishing touch. (See photo no. 24)

    
    Photo 24.

18. Use a pruning shear to trim the ends that overhang the eave. The eave can also be trimmed to a 100% straight finish. (See photo no. 25)

Photo 25.

19. The completed Fiber Thatch ® Hut. (See photo no. 26)

Photo 26.